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One Month in Central Japan

Yokohama to Nagasaki, via the Tokaido and the Inland Sea

1st day
Yokohama. Approaching from the sea, the traveler has his first view of Fujiyama, then the bluffs appear, and soon he distinguishes the Grand Hotel on the Bund. Yokohama itself is not much of a sightseeing town, but a day or two may be very pleasantly spent in the city and making ourselves acquainted with the habits of Japanese city life. A beautiful riksha ride is around Mississippi Bay, behind the bluffs, but the most important excursion is to Kamakura to see the great bronze Daibutsu, or Great Buddha, and to the island of Enoshima, a popular holiday resort.
4th day
Tokio (one hour by rail from Yokohama) , the $ modern metropolis of Japan. The Palace of the Emperor is in the center of the city, within a double line of moats, and the Imperial Hotel overlooks one of these where wild fowl rest in - perfect security. In Shiba and Ueno Parks are ancient shrines of numerous shoguns, with buildings and driveways made lovely in the spring with the blossom and the perfume of cherry and plum trees. That combination of pleasure and religious rite, Asakusa Park, is also very interesting.
8th day
Nikko (ninety miles by rail from Tokio). The railroad follows the ancient holy road, lined with tall cryptomeria trees. Nikko is one of the most beautifully located, as well as the most artistically interesting, of places in Japan. The shrines of the great shoguns, leyasu and lemitsu, are embedded in parklike surroundings, and the contrast of gilded temples and red pagodas against the dark mountain foliage is charming. An easy trip is up the mountain, past many magnificent views, to Chuzenji Lake, with luncheon there in view of the Kegon Falls, which dash over a precipice to the gorge 250 feet below.
11th day Return by rail from Nikko to Yokohama.
12th day
Miyanoshita. This popular resort in the Ha- kone range is reached by rail from Yokohama ' to Kozu, thence by train to Yumoto (where there is a pretty cascade), thence by rikshas up the beautiful Dogashima gorge. From Myojo- ga-take, the big hill immediately opposite Miyanoshita, there is a magnificent view of Fujiyama. At Ojigoku there are hot sulphur springs, and Hakone Lake reflects the image of Fujiyama on its placid waters.
15th day
Atami. Leave Miyanoshita by * riksha, via Ashinoyu to Hakone, thence over the mountains by the Ten Province Pass. The landscape view from this pass is one of the finest in Japan. The distance is about eighteen miles, and time about eight hours. Atami is a favorite winter resort of the Japanese, as, facing the bay and pro- • tected by mountains, it somewhat resembles the Riviera. There are hot springs here.
17th day Leave Atami by riksha train for Odawara ( four hours), thence by train for Kozu. This is a beautiful ride along the shore of the bay. From Kozu take train for Shizuoka, seventy -one miles. At Gotemba there is an uninterrupted view of Fujiyama, and the volcano can be ascended from here from about the middle of July until the middle of September. Another fine view of Fuji is obtained from the line around Suzukawa.
18th day Nagoya (115 miles by rail from Shizuoka), a prosperous city with 180,000 population. The chief attraction is the feudal castle, one of the best specimens in Japan, and very picturesque.
19th day
Kioto (ninety-four miles by rail from Nagoya). The heart of old Japan, and the center of Jap- anese art. The monasteries with their temples and pagodas are most picturesque, besides being " amongst the largest in the country. A trip to Lake Biwa and back, by the seven tunnels, is interesting, but the chief trip is to Arashiyama ^ gorgeous in spring with cherry blossom or in fall with foliage) by the famous rapids, which are descended in flat boats, skillfully steered by the use of long poles, to avoid being dashed against the rocks.
24th day Nara (twenty-six miles by rail from Kioto) , an old and picturesque monastic city, now fallen sadly into decay. The deer in the ancient parks are very tame. There are numerous immense images of Buddha, both sitting and reclining. One, at least, rivals that of Kamakura.
25th day Osaka (twenty-five miles by rail from Nara) . The Venice of Japan, being built on numerous canals, but there the resemblance stops. It is a city of considerable commercial importance. The chief objects of interest are the temples and castle. The latter was built in 1583 by the famous Tai-So-Sama, who used in its construction stones of immense size.
26th day
Kobe (twenty -one miles by rail from Osaka) . The picturesque European settlement of Hiogo. Besides the adjoining city of Hiogo, there is a beautiful excursion to the Moon Falls. All the Pacific steamship lines stop at Kobe, on their way from Yokohama to Nagasaki and Hong Kong. Most people take passage on them through the beautiful Inland Sea to Nagasaki.
29th day
Nagasaki is reached in about thirty-two hours from Kobe. The voyage is a delightful one, a stop being made at the famous fortress of Shimo- noseki, which is the key to the straits. Nagasaki is a delightful city, and is very popular with sailor-men. It was the scene of Pierre Loti's "Madame Chrysanthemum." Steamers can be taken here for Shanghai or Hong Kong, or back to America via the Inland Sea, Kobe and Yokohama.


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